Guide to Installing Radon Mitigation System
It has been proven that radon is among the number one causes of lung cancer. Radon is found all over and can get into any building at any time. For this reason, many people have opted to get radon mitigation diy systems fixed in their houses or buildings at large. Schools, hospitals and many other institutions and offices have not been left behind, as they too are taking the necessary precaution against this hazard. Radon mitigation systems must be properly installed for maximum and effective performance. If any step is missed or not done properly, then it means the system will not be of any help.
Guide to radon mitigation diy system
1. Test the sub-slab communication
This is the first and most important thing to do. It helps you to determine the air flow that comes from below the slab, which is important in vacuuming the radon gas particles and sweep them out efficiently. Sometimes problem soils may exist under the home, but this should not worry you. All you need to do is to have more than one extraction point.
2. Seal cracks in the foundation walls and floors
The aim or function of the radon mitigation system is to suck up or remove air from underneath the slab that might be rising through the soil. Therefore sealing the cracks that might be present allows for better suction and increases the quantity of gas captured by the radon mitigation system.
3. Install a vertical pipe
The vertical PVC pipes should stretch from under the slab up to an exit spot over the roof line. This pipe is of much importance as it plays the major role of diverting the radon particles out of the house. Installing the pipe alone might not be enough, try to check the sub-slab communication again to confirm that the system is properly installed.
4. Install a manometer
The manometer is installed to aid the homeowners in confirming that the system is functioning properly. The manometer is physically mounted on the pipe, and a small tube from it is inserted into the pipe. Before the fun is turned on or before the installation process is complete, the manometer will stand at zero level. But if it is functioning well, the fluid inside the manometer will rise above the zero level on the side which has the tube extending into the pipe.
5. Cut the pipe in the attic and install the fan
The fan should be installed properly at the attic area to ensure that the vacuum effects are in place. It also aids the sucking of air from beneath the slab and vents it out. If you your home is built on compacts soils, you need a more powerful fan system compared to those used on sandy soils.
6. Check the system
Once you are done with the installation process, check whether it is functioning properly. The manometer reading should be greater than zero if it is properly functioning.